viernes, 4 de marzo de 2011

Travel To Roma


Introducing Rome

No other city comes close. It may no longer be caput mundi (capital of the world), but Rome is an epic, bubbling-over metropolis harbouring lost empires. One visit and you’ll be hooked. Rome has a glorious monumentality that it wears without reverence. Its architectural heirlooms are buzzed around by car and Vespa as if they were no more than traffic islands.

The city bombards you with images: elderly ladies with dyed hair chatting in Trastevere; priests with cigars strolling the Imperial Forums; traffic jams around the Colosseum; plateloads of pasta in Piazza Navona; sinuous trees beside the Villa Borghese; barrages of pastel-coloured scooters revving up at traffic lights as if preparing for a race.

People in Rome encapsulate the spirit of the city. Pass a central café and the tables outside are animated with people, downing fast shots of espresso and sporting big black sunglasses. They are neither posing nor hung over. Nuns flutter through the streets, on the trip of a lifetime or secondment from the Philippines, bustling across the road before treating themselves to an ice cream. Churches fill during Mass, and the priests, dressed in purple, cream or red silk (right down to their socks), read the rites to a hushed congregation (mostly from out of town).

Here the national preoccupation with the aesthetic fuses with incredible urban scenery to make Rome a city where you feel cool just strolling through the streets, catching the sunlight on your face outside a café, or eating a long lunch

. It’s a place that almost encourages you to take things easy.

sights in Rome

The Vatican

Historically beautiful, rich and powerful, it was in the Ager Vaticanus stadium just south of the Vatican that 1st-century emperor Nero martyred the Christian faithful. Among them was apostle Peter, whose tomb lies beneath the monumental St Peter’s Basilica (Basilica di San Pietro). Downstairs in the Vatican grottoes are the papal tombs, among them the simple marble slab that Pope John Paul II now calls home. Far less modest are the adjacent Vatican Museums, an exhausting feast of art, and home to the world’s most famous frescoes in the legendary Sistine Chapel, Michelangelo’s astounding ceiling and wall frescoes that take the cake – picture terrified sinners and ravishing prophets bursting out in 3-D brilliance.

Trastevere

Rome’s picture-perfect ‘left bank’ can still sock an edgy cultural punch. Hip, contemporary galleries stud its cobbled streets and it’s here you’ll find the ever-diminishing trasteverini, the real-deal locals who consider themselves Rome’s true classical descendants. It’s no wonder sensitive souls still feel at home. Trastevere is a visual charmer, crammed with ivy-tickled ochre façadesk, labyrinthine

laneways, vintage trattorias and buzzing, chilled-out squares. Indeed, the area is a hit with foreigners, who flock here to live out their Roman fantasy. There’s even an American university on Via della Lungara for those needing a heftier reason to linger.

Palatine Hill

With its tranquil vibe and unforgettable views, the Palatine’s appeal is clear. A snoop around Museo Palatino is a good place to start your hillside exploration. From here, ramble through the ruins, which boast highlights such as Emperor Dom

itian’s epic Domus Flavia (Imperial Palace); the stucco-laced Casa dei Grifi ; the 16 the century Orti Faranesi gardens; and the Casa di Livia, whose sumptuous frescoes now wow in Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Massimo alle Terme.

San Lorenzo & Il Pigneto

Political street art, grungy centri sociali (social centres) and hardcore leftist leanings – San Lorenzo is Rome’s radical heartland. Born as a 19th-century slum and famed for its anti-Fascist history, it’s now a hip hang-out for real-deal bohemians, avant-garde artists and the swarms of students from the nearby La Sapienza university campus. To the east, beyond the Bladerunner-style overpasses of Circonvallazione Tiburtina, raffish Il Pigneto is quickly becoming Rome’s hippest quartiere (neighbourhood). It’s a beguiling mix of African migrant hang-outs, counterculture cool, and slinky new bars and shops. Drop by in the evening to feel the local vibe, when local bohemians pour into the bars. Leave some room for new-school dining, before grungy late-night culture and clubbing.

Appian Way

The cypress-fringed Appian Way is a classical Sunset Blvd; it’s shrouded in legends and tales of famous faces. Only here the protagonists aren’t faded divas, they’re saviours and saints. Heading the cast is Christ himself, who is said to have appeared to St Peter where Chiesa del Domine Quo Vadis now stands. It’s hard to dispute the otherworldly lure of Rome’s ancient highway, where secret frescoes and long-forgotten epigraphs lurk below rolling hills, crumbled mausoleums and ancient chariot racetracks. If possible, hit the strip on Sundays, when traffic is banned and Rome’s ‘Queen of the Roads’ turns into pedal-friendly bliss.

Roman panoramas

Originally perched on seven hills, and now sprawling over several more, Rome seems specially made for jaw-dropping vistas. Other cities might boast taller peaks – both natural and artificial – but few can match the Eternal City’s near-flawless historical sweeps.

Capitolene Museums at Piazzo Del Campidoglio

The planet’s oldest public museum is a powder keg of legend, lust and melodrama, encapsulated in Rome’s collection of classical treasures. The collection was established by Pope Sixtus IV in 1471, who donated a few bronze statues to the city. One of the gifts was the iconic 5th-century BC Etruscan bronze She-Wolf (complete with suckling Renaissance twins), now feeding happily on Palazzo dei Conservatori’s 1st floor.

Museo e Galleria Borghese

There are good art museums. There are great art museums. And then there’s the Museo e Galleria Borghese. Upstaging most of the national competition (no mean feat in Italy), and one that’s well worth the slight hassle of the phone call or mouse click required to book a ticket. You have bon vivant Cardinal Scipione Borghese to thank for the collection. He was the most ruthless art collector of his day, stopping at nothing to get what he wanted. He had Cavaliere d’Arpino flung into jail in order to confiscate his canvases, and had Domenichino arrested to force him to surrender The Hunt of Diana. Less questionable was his decision to have 17th-century wedding cake Villa Borghese built to house his ever-expanding cultural booty.

Galleria Doria Pamphilj

Lavish Galleria Doria Pamphilj boasts one of the capital’s richest private art collections, with works by Raphael, Caravaggio, Titian, Tintoretto, Brueghel, Bernini and Velázquez in the mix.

It’s housed in the blingtastic Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, whose decadent Gallery of Mirrors resembles a snack-sized Versailles. Ready to help you tackle the booty is palace resident Jonathon Pamphilj (on the free audioguide), whose anecdotes about the art, sumptuous rooms and the odd ancestral scandal transform the space into a living, breathing entity. The most striking piece is Velázquez’s psychologically-present portrait of Pope Innocent X. Upon its unveiling, the pontiff grumbled that the depiction was ‘too real’. He wasn’t wrong – you can actually feel his critical gaze sizing you up. Thankfully, Bernini’s sculpted version of the 17th-century pontiff won’t leave you feeling quite as guilty.

Costs

Rome isn't a bargain destination. Two top-notch museums, an all-day travel pass, a cheap lunch, a couple of coffees and a decent restaurant dinner can easily set you back €80 a day, on top of your hotel bill. Add a few cocktails and a little retail therapy, and watch the figure soar. Seasoned budget travellers might get by on €40 per day, excluding accommodation expenses. Public transport is relatively cheap, and many museums are free to EU citizens under 18 and over 65 years and discounted to EU citizens aged between 18 and 24 years. It's also worth considering the various discounts available, such as the Appia Antica Card, the Archaeologia Card, the Roma Pass or the Museo Nazionale Romano Card, all of which are available at the monuments and museums they cover.

Source: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/italy/rome

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